At Chanel, designers once again returned to the lion, a motif loved by Coco Chanel, who herself was a leo. Rather than replicate a star sign, this new incantation of the king of beasts paid homage to the personality of the lion itself. Jewels were decorated with a lion’s head – the expression of which took craftsmen six months to perfect – studded with diamonds or carved from warm yellow beryl, chosen for its semblance to a mane. The other key motif in this collection was tough lengths of curb-link chain (or at least the appearance of chains), further demonstrating that this is a tough, regal, proud and brave collection for women of the same caliber.
Chopard and Dauphin took a more softly-softly approach with their new high jewellery collections. Chopard presented red carpet-ready extensions to its classic Precious Chopard line that made diamonds, rubies, emeralds and tanzanites the star, set in lattices of precious metal settings that were soft as silk. On the opposite side of Place Vendôme, Dauphin presented its Fluid Captured collection, with soft mesh-like patchworks of diamonds swinging freely from chunky open rings, with brown diamonds set in rose gold for a warm look.