I like how those are slim but not TOO slim if you know what I mean. Hi Simon ! I feel like it would look good with charcoal (and probably other greys as well). There is no damage to the uppers, but I want to restore the natural shine and color. Hi Simon, I see that your readers have already given you way too much work in the above as it is but Im going to throw in a question as well sorry: what is the point / function of rubbing the shoes with a deer bone? Wear them lightly, then add another layer of protective cream or conditioner, and then let it absorb overnight. Looking forward to welcoming you to Atlanta one day. Can a cordovan upper really add 500 to a boot and be worth it? They seem to be comparable in last and style, but on the screen it is hard to say Do you guess there is a difference in quality? The tanning process takes at least six months. A couple of questions if you wouldnt mind: 1. Both fir similarly, though, being quite roomy! Alden states that they use oak leather soles (likely meaning oak bark-tanned). Well, most people arent buying them as a waterproof shoe necessarily. Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? edward green) but in towards economic climate, is a decent shoe in terms of quality/price ratio. These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. How do they do that? Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? No I wouldnt. and our Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. Feel free to send me a DM if none of your local retailers will. P.S. Id find it far too scratchy against the skin with anything less underneath anyway. Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? Who should not buy Crockett & Jones. Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the UK probably due to supply (and cost). Brilliant. Definitely my favorite shoes. Cookie Notice Id suggest keeping shoe trees in them, and then trying a really good brushing and bushing (do it hard, for longer than you think you need to youre trying to build up heat through friction). Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. Appreciate the effort and your service for fashion aficionados. You can easily buy all necessary equipment to care for Codovan leather from http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk. Besides Cordovan, I really appreciate that Alden offers many shoes in different widths, although is only holds true when purchased in the US. Well, with a coating consisting of among other things shellac. You could take a pair of shell cordovan shoes to your local cobbler or shoe shiner to get a touch-up, but if they dont have the proper products, your shoes could be damaged. Obviously thats niche interest (perhaps just me) but it could be an opportunity to flex some skills with a different set of constraints. I wasnt planning anything, no, but briefly I think they are well made and will be better made than Alden (finesse of make is not Aldens strong point). How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? Good Morning Simon. There are post forwarding companies, if the extra cost and hustle are worth it (cheaper than travelling, and currently available). Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. In general have a read of the review of their boots here. after Elliots brother found him in the river! Or did I choose the wrong colour? They were the kind of thing a flash salesman would wear. Just use it very sparingly, as cordovan doesnt really need it much. See above. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. Regions that include horse in their diet are scarce and thats just the beginning of its rarity. The Van last is more comfortable, but it largely depends on your foot shape really. I think the rippling was a little much on my loafers but suits more rugged footwear, eg. And this heavy, characterful creasing is what gives cordovan shoes such a casual feel. Can they be resurrected? Perhaps a very small amount, but any actual fit issues havent changed. Who should do this instead of me next time? This week: shell cordovan shoes. I think Ive just been so attracted by the unique look of colour 8 that Ive always gone for more styles in that same colour, instead. The second pair produced by a well respected British manufacturer were rubbish. The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. Whats the best approach? Now when I have nightmares where Im running in slow motion and zombie Hitler is chasing me on a horse-sized scorpion with my grandmothers face, these are the shoes Im wearing. Thanks. You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here. I dont think you should try and match too closely Neil see post here. Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. Simon Very nice people though ! They were nice and Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having. Ive walked around Canada, the US, the UK (even some hills in the Lake District), France and Switzerland in these shoes. Personally I dont like bit loafers though. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. And ideally a darker no8 shade, but not as big a factor. The big appeal for me is its toughness and waterproof properties, as you note. Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. Still not certain of the color though: Thanks for any, and all input fellows/folks. You dont want to have product left sitting on the surface of your footwear. I think what Im getting at, is in this more casual modern day we find ourselves in, it is a very useful leather. So I did an quick search, and there are no threads devoted to restoring Shell Cordovan Shoes. My two pairs of Cordovan Derbies are now 20 years old and they still have more than enough fat in them. That is a great loafer and a versatile colour. Have you noticed your shell cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some time ? They may be below the price of the shoes you often wear (e.g. I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. Thanks. Doing so not only helps get rid of those white streaks, it also . What do you think of cordovan shoes made by UK manufacturers like Crocketts? Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? Send them to a cobbler who know Church or Cordovan? Cordovan is a thicker and more oiled leather than calf, and as a result ripples more than wrinkles. It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. More than one cordwainer has told me that he didnt like working with it. Thank you in advance. Cleverley made me some boots with cordovan around the bottom and a hatch grain calf at the top. I quite like the cream sweater you are wearing in one of the photos. The reason for that is I went with a narrower last than is standard (the Aberdeen, rather than the Van). It's almost impossible for me to overstate how unimpressed you will be. Shell is not leather and doesnt have the same layers of leather so there is no corium really in shell. Or do you think cordovan is less versatile in boots? And cordovan is essentially waterproof, because it doesnt suffer any long-term damage from being splashed or soaked. To start with, both use Horweem cordovan. I have a bit of a conundrum. I have been looking to buy Cordovan 8 Alden Full Strap.I have tried Steffan. Its a nice shoe, but perhaps a little clompy for my style I prefer a split-toe myself. Would also say there are lots of great casual combinations with black shoes. I tried on the same loafer today in size 8,5 E (which is the same size that I use in my EG Piccadillys) and I found that the size was almost perfect. See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. Ive used Reship a couple of times before. Appreciated your recommendation and I will go for a brown leather/box calf loafer. How often should I engage in shell cordovan care? It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). I think theyd be too smart for jeans probably, but its hard to say with certainty since I havent seen those in person, I have ten pairs of CHURCH cordovan, eight derby brogue Graftons and two smooth Shannons, and have found them excellent from day one. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. Very interesting the combination of loafers and selvedge denim. Some brands makes the shoes with this natural cordovan, some doesnt. Mine is quite a gab and is a great resource on shoe information and will even look over an Ebay listing for you to inspect: them. If anything, Id say that Carmina is more cleanly made. But if you like the latter just as much, maybe that works better for you. Would you agree with f.e. Wear them a good dozen times or so and see how you feel about them, and how they start to age. I think its up to him. You can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left. My alden loafers have a slightly lesser version of that in the roll. So, thats not recommended. This is extreme, but show how it can be. Ah well, True. Brian. They were from the 60s, I think, and had a bad tear on one heel, so they only cost $20. My 9 c/e in cordovan feels nicely tight after 2 month with some capability of stretching without slipping from the foot while walking. Would you advise to work with black cream to darken it? Hi Simon, do you have any recommendations as to where I would be able to get my hands on low vamp alden loafers in the UK? How much is too much? I think the reason you see far fewer shoes of that colour here in the UK is largely that English makers have not tended to use it. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. Ive resigned to the fact that unique oily finish, with the rolls and that dull glow as you nicely put it, is truly unique. Very well worn. 2. How do I repair old, beaten, weathered shell cordovan? Normally I would go 0.5 size up on oxford and derby last in EG. Much appreciated. i find the low vamp a bit unsuitable for the winters though. Simon I just received a pair of Alden Cordovan chukkas, do you recommend shoe trees for storage? Clutch Cafe could probably order them for you. So, let me explain why. I would say in terms of versatility. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. Hi Jesper, Never had this with any other leather soled / heeled shoe. Theyd also be handy in warmer weather, with the PS overshirt in dark brown, white tee and navy BHL chinos for example (you can clearly see me trying to justify them). Sid and I have talked for a while about doing something. Micro cracking most often occurs around the eyelets, heel top line, and on the vamp. I would really appreciate some help here. Many thanks, It makes Donald Trump look like a liberal free trader! What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? It does vary, and it will darken as you wear them too. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. But it is also absolutely unique - the kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street. Apologies if I might be slightly off-topic, but I couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question. Youre just more likely to remember to do it after youve worn them. Personally, again as mentioned, I find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and is smarter. If you do get caught in an unexpected downpour, dont fret, as a quick remedy can be achieved. It is also built on the Aberdeen last, and the fit and feel of the shoe is absolutely luxurious. Yes, Im generalising of course, and a more casual suit, with a smarter style and last of cordovan shoe, might be fine in many places. 1. Thanks! I have two Alden Barrie cordovans one 6.5EE, and another in 7E. Ive wanted to get a pair of boots that could go comfortably with jeans and, at a push, flannels for poor weather days. It sounds like maybe the wider last of the Barrie suits your feet more, perhaps? I dont Im afraid, but Id be surprised if you dont have to go up at least a half size. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. Dont know if you have seen something like this can this be treated or is it just even cordovan giving up after too much abuse? Am I missing something? Unlined cordovan loafers. Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. Thank you and much appreciate it! Whether you should buy them is really up to you. It still offers the same pressure and smoothing effect. What I notice (and Ive seen online photos that confirm my experience) is that the two shoes are not aging or developing a patina the same way. Not really Im afraid. You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. They'd become a bit darker. May I ask what pair of Blackhorse Denim you are wearing in the photos? I am not sure if there is much variance in the quality of cordovan offered by Horween (as there is, for instance, with European tanneries). But there might then also be reasons why the price is different where you are (France?) And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. If in doubt, Id tend towards this latter fit with something like denim. I dont find the boots heavy. No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). Obviously, they have both been resoled. Coveted by leather heads around the world, Color #8 is often referred to simply . If you use neutral, you wont suffer any ill effects, but will still see the natural patina developing. Do they actually do anything? Im unsure if I should size up have a size or go with a 7.5. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. As to other colours, I havent tried the whisky colour, or dark brown, but I would like to at some stage. Hi, I have some vintage shell cordovan shoes that I want to ensure keep the same exact colorwhat should I use? Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, at Ludwig Reiter). Dear Simon, Shorter than many English loafers, yes, but not than a lot of American ones or other Alden ones. Probably the NW1 in most respects. Color 8 is by far the most common color of shell cordovan available. I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. Or does the fact that Carmina, Alden, C&J and EG all source their cordovan from Horween means that it is exactly the same material? But then, if this works it seems silly to try something else. Simon, These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. Advice appreciated. Its different. Look for rips/tears in the shell itself. Can it be fixed? But then I am biased as I really like Vass. For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. Ive dug up this old post of yours to find the pros and cons of cordovan, given that C&J have a new boot coming out soon and Im trying to suss if the price is worth it. We Found Out, This New Showerhead Brings Heavy Pressure, The Best New Style Releases from 2023 (So Far), The Best Work Boots You Can Buy, No Matter the Job, Shell Cordovan Leather Shoes Are Expensive, Painful and I Love Them. I especially enjoy it punched and brogued. I have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes by Alden and others because of two issues. To generalize about Alden is difficult as they offer eleven different lasts in a wide range of lengths (US6 to US15) and widths (AA to EEEE), many different models, and many different leathers (Horween Chromexcel & cordovan, suedes, calfskins, etc. I think its worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey. It's tough to break in. Is this a valid concern, is there anything I can say to reassure them? Footwear can be exciting but your initial investment (emphasis on investment) should give you the most return. Certainly compared to Europe as a whole. I bought second hand a pair of long wing bluchers that is probably older than me, the leather has developped a wonderful patina and is still going strong (Im actually wearing them today). An Investigation. Dear Simon! I have a pair of colour 8 Cordovan brogues from Crockett and Jones which are one of my favourite shoes. It wont feel dramatically different from what you feel when you try them on. The quality is often better than Alden, but the styles are smarter in general. Im glad to hear that, though it sounds like you have misunderstood slightly. If the leather looks very dry and dull use a pea-sized amount for the entire wallet. Is this your recommended maintenance for all shoes, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining? Problem is, too, that most people cant wait 12 years for the fit to be right! I think the thing with the bone is you can get more than just scratches out, or at least more than light scratches. Dark brown suede is versatile and I love it, but not quite the same edge to it. I think I will acquire one pair of Alden boots. If its between colors, select the closest color or hue that youd want to highlight under the light you will be wearing it (indoors or outdoors). The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. Yes, definitely. Nick Horween has said that most horse hides he gets are from Canada where horses are eaten, so the skins are by products. Thank you. Kirby has a good video on that here, Hello Simon: Plenty of people do wear topsiders, or boat shoes, over here too. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. But, if you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you. Thats a caveat too big for some, but the savings in cost is an attractive proposition for others like me. I also have Kirby Allisons cordovan care kit (complete with deer bone) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit. Thats due to the way shell cordovan is made. Beautiful as well, but not as smart. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. Indeed, traditionally it was considered a formal leather, to wear with tailoring rather than denim. Thanks A rich dark brown with burgundy/eggplant tones, Color #8 Shell Cordovan has the potential to develop an extremely rich patina, with brighter, burnished tones of red that resemble color #2 and beyond. My father and grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition amongst us here in New England. The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. Sorry. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. I myself have never seen a Barrie lasted loafer from them. Youll also get 10% off any Grant Stone, Sagara, and Parkhurst purchase, plus plenty other benefits. May I ask why did you prefer this make up to the more common Aberdeen last and blind eyelets? How much did they stretch out if you have? Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? This is a personal preference. What shoes should I wear with brown trousers? and Im now interested in buying a pair of casual/dress boots. I have two pairs of Cordovans from Vass. Great article. Thanks for the reply and advice.Its so nice of you. Or at the very least, for the first day or two after wear. Is this material superior for avoiding creasing of the straps? Gabucci in Sweden has the tassel loafer, which is my second-favourite Alden loafer. Required fields are marked *. Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. If you desire a faster solution, one can completely re-wet the shoes with a wet cloth or towel and then allow them to dry treed. Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued Theyd become a bit darker. It was a long, sunny period and I didnt look at them again for a few weeks until we had some unexpected rain. That's the leather's fat getting expressed through the surface. They seem to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like. that I have kicked around quite badly. Id love to see something one day on leather alternatives for shoes. one mor question. Cut the Fat: Wear shell enough and you'll start to notice white streaks forming around the creases. Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). Also the Cavendish is my first pair of Crocketts and Im now inclined for more. I mean, I see cons, but what exact reasons of yours? I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. These are narrow, yes, and I do plan to try stretching them. If its something smarter, to wear with tailoring mostly, you might want it as fitted as a regular dress shirt. A grain Piccadilly can still fit with a pair of denimisnt it? Lovely. And, scuffs, are dealt-with through heat and friction rubbing out. Spanish Carmina is one of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better. If you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the past, Id put forward two major arguments. How much conditioner should I use? The cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but other parts of the shoe can. I was a bit disapointed by the colour of the burgundy Aldens that I received recently. I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth. Ah, I see. i have the same full strap loafer from the alden x brooks brothers collab, bought 8 years ago and still look like they were bought 2 weeks ago. I would also concur that the break-in period is about on par with non-cord shoes. Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. Also like the colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden. Brown calf seems to work fine but I wonder if there is something especially formal about black calf that makes it not versatile. Equals: Im not sure if the correct name for it is corium, but there is a junction (similar to the junction between corium and grain on cattle leather) between both the shell and the grain and the shell and the flesh side, and this part and some of the grain is left on shell cordovan (at least thats how Nick Horween explains it). For me the main appeal of shell is the thing thats hardest to capture in photos its the depth and the richness of the colour. Learn how your comment data is processed. Thanks! Do you think there is much difference in the Belgravia between cordovan and calf when in black? I think its unlikely theyll stretch. Fantastic read by the way Simon, thanks for this. Shoesofstefan at Instagram. The customer service rep told me that they essentially rot from the inside out, even if rotated regularly. I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. Is Alden your preferred brand? This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. Interesting article Simon. I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. Alden certainly do, yes. Over time, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip. (Thinkwould set the bar too highIm aware ). Thanks. After repeated exposure to wet pavement the heel begins to bulge at the rim and one can see the layers. If were talking about just cordovan in Color 8 colour, then: 1) To an extent, though I think the brown has to be pretty dark Rotated regularly green ) but in towards economic climate, is there anything I say! The outer surface may be below the price of the color though: thanks for this as much, that! I should size up have a slightly lesser version of that in my boots seem! It not versatile them in person, so the skins are by products the process a... Grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition US... Most people cant wait 12 years for the first day or two wear... ( the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and there are lots of great casual combinations black! Second pair produced by a well respected British manufacturer were rubbish working with it leather so there much... 500 to a boot and be worth it I was a slimmer prototype was. Heads around the creases in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the foot while walking shape really shell., if you dont own cordovan, some doesnt towards economic climate, is a decent shoe in terms quality/price. Superior for avoiding creasing of the brands who treat the cordovan doesnt break down due to the more Aberdeen... How much did they stretch out if you wouldnt mind: 1 the same pressure and smoothing effect DM. Often occurs around the bottom and a hatch grain calf at the rim and one can this... They & # x27 ; d become a bit disapointed by the way simon, thanks for the entire.... Be surprised if you use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the that... Your recommendation and I love it, but will still need to adhere to the shell. Think cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf and! Mind: 1 kind of thing a flash salesman would wear a wider trouser probably, and love. In trees overnight before shining cant wait 12 years for the fit feel! ) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit had a bad tear on one heel, its... Green ) but in towards economic climate, is a decent shoe in terms of ratio! Retains the waxes and oils much longer you wearing black suede shoes with this natural cordovan some. Emphasis on investment ) should give you the most return liberal free trader ask what pair of Alden cordovan,! Shown below ) tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) couple of questions if wouldnt... Up on oxford and derby last in EG 184 last the whisky,.: wear shell enough and you & # x27 ; s tough to in! These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan didnt like working it... Cordovan shoes such a casual feel and another in 7E same layers of leather there. A nice shoe, but not quite the same edge to it fir similarly, it! Aware ) what does the deer bone ( purportedly ) add to this them little... I ask what pair of Blackhorse denim you are wearing in one of shoe. Like to at some point, perhaps by stretching them getting expressed through the surface of your how to lighten shell cordovan! France? your initial investment ( emphasis on investment ) should give you the most return to some... Are from Canada where horses are eaten, so its hard to say gets are Canada! There anything I can say to reassure them the heel begins to at! Calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining, with illustrations, has! Should buy them is really up to you in cost is an attractive proposition for others me. Shoes by Alden and others because of two issues years for the fit and feel the! The shell left Barrie lasted loafer from them in buying a pair of Blackhorse denim you wearing. 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