By Avril Groom

Clear trends in women’s watches emerge from Baselworld, with brands at every market level singing the same desirable tunes. Brighter colour than ever before is a runaway winner, whether on dials – Nomos, Charriol, or velvet at Hublot, straps as at Hermès, Breguet (matched to dial details), Chopard, Glashütte and Gc, or as rainbow shaded gemstone bezels at Rolex, Hublot, Fendi’s changeable hour markers and Bulova’s mix with leopard print.

Nomos, Aqua Ahoi
Nomos, Aqua Ahoi
Charriol, Colvmbvs with diamonds
Hublot, Big Bang One Click
Hublot, Big Bang One Click
Hermes, NantucketTPM
Breguet, Classique 7147, white gold with diamonds
Breguet, Classique 7147, white gold with diamonds
Chopard, Happy Ocean
Rolex, Yacht Master with coloured sapphires, green tsavorites and triangular diamond
Rolex, Yacht Master with coloured sapphires, green tsavorites and triangular diamond
Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire
Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire
Fendi Ishine Two-Tone

In complete contrast, that over-girly pink we see so much of has been replaced by more sophisticated and gently flattering shades of skin tone, everything from a milky beige to a rich bois de rose, often teamed with rose gold (or rose gold PVD), and either throughout the watch – appropriately pearlised on Patek Philippe’s new Nautilus, with soft pink dial at Bulova, and tonal on Mondaine’s Helvetica and Swatch’s re-launched ultra-thin Skin – on softly metallic and easy change straps at Raymond Weil, or on dials at Rolex, Dior and softening a masculine shape at Bell and Ross.

Patek Philippe, Nautulus in  rose gold with diamonds
Patek Philippe, Nautulus in rose gold with diamonds
Raymond Weil, Shine "Etoile" with diamonds
Raymond Weil, Shine "Etoile" with diamonds
Rolex, Lady-Datejust
Rolex, Lady-Datejust
Bulova
Bulova
Mondaine, Helvetica
Mondaine, Helvetica
Dior, Satine watch
Dior, Satine watch

The industry has woken up to women’s growing interest in sports, and the watches that go with them, especially the nautical variety. Neat diving watches that are functional but go just as well to the office appear from TAG Heuer, Tudor, Grand Seiko, Blancpain and astonishingly gem-bezelled at Chopard. Corum’s relaunched Admiral’s Cup model speaks to the sailing crew, Breitling’s bright gold-faced style to flyers, Chanel’s quirky new J12 to urban gym bunnies and Victorinox super-tough style with its parachute-rope strap mixes high functionality with elegance.

TAG Heuer Carrera Lady
TAG Heuer Carrera Lady
Tudor, Clair de Rose
Tudor, Clair de Rose
Blancpain Bathyscaphe
Blancpain Bathyscaphe
Corum Admiral Legend 38
Corum Admiral Legend 38
Breitling Galactic 36 Automatic
Breitling Galactic 36 Automatic
Chanel, J12 Graffiti
Chanel, J12 Graffiti

One of the glories of women’s timepieces is the jewellery watch – a fast-growing area as top-quality gems and rare crafts become sound investments. Jewellery brands excel, from Harry Winston’s blends of diamonds and complex movements or Graff’s use of crafts such as enamelling alongside the highest-level gem cutting and setting, to Fabergé’s exquisite evocation of the African coast in Mozambique rubies and enamelled waves, or De Grisogono’s riot of pavé diamonds, and Bulgari’s dangerously beautiful secret watch. Watch houses have their own specialisms – enamel in relief at Jaquet Droz, gem setting and exquisite enamelled dials at Breguet, rarely seen but highly prized diamond models at Rolex. But the greatest creativity of design and craft comes from Dior and Chanel, as adopt at watchmaking as they are at haute couture.

Harry Winston, Avenue C Mini Moon Phase
Harry Winston, Avenue C Mini Moon Phase
Graff, MasterGraff Tourbillon
Graff, MasterGraff Tourbillon
Fabergé Lady Libertine III
Fabergé Lady Libertine III
De Grisogono Eccentrica
Bulgari, Serpenti Seduttori
Bulgari, Serpenti Seduttori
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Relief Seasons
Breguet Reine de Naples Mini 8928
Breguet Reine de Naples Mini 8928
Rolex, Datejust
Chanel “Mademoiselle Privé” Coromandel Glyptic and Sculpted gold