Though only 4,000 of the 17,000 islands in Indonesia are inhabited, there are lots to attract tourists. Many of these islands are rich in flora and fauna, and also home to indigenous tribes. And the best way to see these is by checking into a boat for 10 to 14 days to cover just a fraction of the archipelago. The vessel of my choice was The Arenui, a traditional Indonesian phinisi that traverses Raja Ampat and Komodo in different seasons. It has such a solid reputation amongst divers that departure dates sometimes get booked out two years in advance. I was lucky to get a spot on it to Raja Ampat last December.