Forn once, Milan trends for autumn accord well with London’s, plus one surprise addition. The fabulous riot of colour and print, emphasised by oversized creative knitwear, and the return of the duvet (or quilt) as high fashion were all there. But the politics, no-one saw that coming. Milan’s women rose as one to promote fashion as an agent of female empowerment and unity.
Angela Missoni, whose wonderfully crazy knits were a highlight, spoke passionately form the catwalk surrounded by her family, all wearing the Missoni “pussy protest” beanies that she gifted to every guest. Donatella Versace’s “Equality” soundtrack was assertive as the slogans emblazoned on her fierce, sporty, sophisticated designs. Part-Haitian Stella Jean referenced Soviet Russia, its landscapes as well as its oppression, her hammer and sickle as scissors, needle and thread poignant.
Miuccia Prada was famously political in her youth – maybe her warped, student bedroom set was a subtle reference, alongside the softest, most decorated 1950s 1970s sweaters – triple knit and curvy mohair dresses included. Knits were also the best of Gucci, especially when ruffle-edged and lined with a clashing silk print. Colour is an Italian given – even at Armani this time – but the surprise was seeing it used solo or tonally, beautifully done in shades of spice, chilli and mustard at Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta and Trussardi.
Quilting here is also calm, bringing a modern, minimalist mood to Marni, Sander and Ferragamo. A total contrast to Dolce e Gabbana, who are hardly political and yet, by using hundreds of their friends of all shapes and sizes as models created Milan’s biggest statement of diversity.
