By Avril Groom
Paris shoulders are wider, shapes more oversized than elsewhere, especially at Balenciaga but more wearably at Céline, Stella McCartney, Sacai and Yohji Yamamoto. Colour is more muted, yet rich – all the blues, with black at Dior or with green or russet at Issey Miyake, or clubby combinations of navy, burgundy and forest green at Sacai or Elie Saab.
Tweeds and checks serve up nostalgia in a modern way at Balenciaga, Stella McCartney, Veronique Branquinho, Chanel, Sonia Rykiel and Loewe. Knitwear continues strongly – embroidered with silver moons at Dior, with disguised logos at Loewe, with handmade patches at Rykiel. The season’s quilting theme re-emerges – worthy of HM at Stella McCartney, space blanket style at Chanel.
Paris shows reach further than anywhere into the fine details of craftwork, influenced by its couture heritage. A subtle memory of 1970s style underlies intricate yet rough-hewn peasant styles at Rykiel, Chloé and Loewe, workman overalls at Dior and extraordinary work at Louis Vuitton on everything from lace-inset lingerie dresses to leather or fur jackets. Meanwhile, a calm Medieval beauty descends on Valentino and Alexander McQueen, with the most delicate colours, hand embroidery and beading, and stories full of historic symbols.
